Happy Easter! We awoke to another beautiful French morning, and all raced to breakfast in anticipation of a chocolaty surprise, but unfortunately it was not to be. For Lis Sandbach though, it meant sampling some delicious French chocolate croissants, as her Lent promise of no chocolate was now over.
Our first destination this morning was Delville Wood, the site of the South African Somme Memorial. This memorial contained over 5000 graves, 3500 of which were unidentified, suggesting the horrors of the battle. Over the course of the battle 400 shells were fired per minute on average. What was even more remarkable was the lone tree behind the memorial. It was the only tree left standing from the entire wood after the battle. As it began 3150 entered the wood, at the end only 143 men emerged, the rest were dead or wounded.
Delville Wood is also now the resting place of some chocolate as well. It became the site of our Easter egg hunt, which started with eagerness and excitement, but ended with nettle stings and scratches! Nevertheless, we ended up with a haul of Easter eggs and after we applied the first aid, we were on our way to the next destination.
This was the Scottish memorial, which was also the memorial to bagpipers from across the Empire who served in WW1. It was decided that it might be fitting for the bagpipes to be played, so I took them out, and played a couple of times through “Amazing Grace” and the traditional Scottish tune “Scotland the Brave”. This was appreciated by the group, as well as several packs of enthusiastic cyclists, who were riding by, although as we were playing about 9.30 on a Sunday morning, in the middle of a village, we may have left a few angry French folk in our wake.
Tom, the tour's Kiwi, takes his place beside the Pipers' memorial
Our next stop was Grevillers British Cemetery, where we had an adopted digger commemoration from Hadley, which included some genuine Aussie gum leaves left on his grave. We then made our way to Pozieres, a site of vicious and bloody fighting during the Battle of the Somme and also the Australian First Division Memorial.
Bruce outlines the horrors of Pozieres
After exploring this memorial, and hearing a grim story from Bruce about the battle, we went into the town of Pozieres and enjoyed a hot chocolate at a café with a difference. This café, adorned with Australian and British memorabilia, included a kind of museum, with genuine artefacts found by the locals, including unexploded shells and casings. Also in the back was a huge life sized model of the trenches, both Allied and German, which provided us with another perspective.
It was then off to Thiepval, and the massive Anglo-French memorial, a huge arch of brick and stone, similar to the Menin Gate, listing thousands upon thousands of the missing. Many of us were emotionally touched by this monument, which was located in idyllic countryside, especially when Bridget styodd beneath the central span and sang Amazing Grace for us. Many other visitors stopped and listened. One woman left the monument weeping inconsolably. Bridget described the experience as “the most moving part of the trip for me”.
We had a short time to get ourselves together on the way to lunch, which was up the road at the Irish memorial, where we were served soup and sandwiches by waitresses with a very Irish accents. This memorial was also important politically, with the IRA blowing up many memorials in Ireland during the '60s and '70s.
The SOAPs gather under the Moose of Newfoundland
We also went to the Newfoundland memorial, which had original trenches, albeit a little repaired and maintained. Still, these gave us a powerful insight into life in the trenches, especially for me as my head poked over the top, leaving me vulnerable to enemy fire. A look around the Visitor’s Centre got us some new hat badges, this time featuring Canadian flags and poppies.
And finally, Villers-Brettoneux, one of the most important sites for Australians on the Western Front. We first went to Adelaide cemetery, where we had an adopted digger tribute from Bridget for her great-grandmother’s uncle.
Bridget pays tribute to her family digger
We then found the grave from which a body of an unknown soldier was exhumed and buried at the Australian War Memorial as the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. We each took turns to read lines from Paul Keating’s speech dedicating the Tomb in Canberra. It turned out to be an amazing, moving speech.
After Adelaide Cemetery, we went to the local school, Victoria School. It was built by donations from Victoria in the 1920s, and inscribed everywhere are the words “N’oublions jamais l’Australie” (Never forget Australia), reflecting the connection between us and this school. It also housed large museum of memorabilia from the war.
Our final stop was the Australian memorial, which was also the site of the ANZAC day service on the Western Front. We were put off by the television equipment, which covered the cemetery and made it hard to conduct tributes for Liz Smart's and Martin’s adopted diggers.
Martin and Liz remember their adopted diggers
at Villers-Bretonneux
Yet we still managed, and as with all the tributes we were all deeply moved and saw the personal connection between the students and their diggers. We finished off with the Last Post on bugle and Waltzing Matilda on bagpipes. We finished off a bit earlier today, as we knew tomorrow would be the big day – ANZAC Day, and a 3:00 AM wake-up.
Today was a day where we gained a greater understanding of the tragic waste of life at infamous battle sites of the Somme. It was both a powerful and emotional experience.
After a reasonable wake up call to be on the road by 8.30, we were all very interested about the sites we were going to be visiting today. We began with Cobbers where there was a large statue of Sergeant Fraser carrying a wounded man - there was a significant story behind this man which Bruce explained to us.
We then moved onto VC Corner where Rachel and Kristy spoke of their adopted diggers. Kristy’s digger Private Thomas Henry Phillip Shephard was a touching story. She had a personal connection to this man and spoke of him fondly. When Rachel spoke of her digger Private Frederick Giffen Holst, I felt captured by his story. It was very powerful.
Rachel prepares to remember her adopted digger
Fromelles and Pheasant Wood was our next stop. Myself and Helen had our diggers resting here. I had a somewhat personal connection with my digger Private Thomas Joseph Cosgriff and it was an honour to remember and acknowledge his life and sacrifice to the group. It was also amazing to think that he exhumed and identified from the mass graves at Pheasant Wood. The new cemetery was beautiful and it definitely had an emotional impact on me.
Kristy remembers her digger at VC Corner
Aisling pays tribute to Pte Cosgriff
It was officially lunch time now! After a cute sandwich packed lunch in Vimy Ridge, everyone had a little wander where this site was explained by a Canadian tour guide uni student. It was quite interesting.
Our next stop was Bullecourt, where Bruce explained the infamous events of this battle site. It’s extremely painful to hear of such horrors not only at this site but all of the others, however I believe we all took something significant from it. It had a gorgeous blossom tree out the front where we all took some great photos!
Nearing the end of our day, we headed off to Mont St Quentin where Nick had his adopted digger Private Gervase Edgeworth. He gave a thorough discussion of his life and sacrifice, which was very fascinating, in particular how Private Edgeworth went to the same school Nick now teaches at.
Nick pays tribute to his digger, a student at Xavier
The very last stop was outside Peronne, where a Channel 9 TV crew filmed Laura as she gave an incredibly touching story of her adopted digger who was also her great-great grandfather. Private William Alfred Whitney had an inspiring story which nearly brought me to tears. As my own great-grandfather participated in war, I can relate to Laura with the emotion and significance of standing on the ground where our relatives once stood and fought in 1916.
Laura remembers her great-great-grandfather
It was another action-packed day that I am sure we will all remember.
Another early morning and by today everyone felt pretty tired. That didn’t seem to stop anyone though, it’s not everyday that you are walking the very paths that so many of our ANZAC’s walked and trying to comprehend the events that caused so many of them to lose their lives.
Today was really our introduction to the Western Front. We have experienced the overwhelming sense of sadness and loss before. It was impossible to visit Gallipoli without experiencing it. But today we were confronted with not only the sadness and sense of loss. We had to try and comprehend the sheer magnitude of deaths that occurred around Ypres and the Salient.
Here so many of the Allied soldiers fought and were killed that it is not as easy to discern the ANZAC story from the stories of members of the other allied forces.
To put some of the places we visited today into perspective, many of the cemeteries contain the graves of up to 10,000 troops. It’s impossible to imagine that the number of people killed in just one small battle is the same as wiping out the population of an entire town.
The Railway Dugout Cemetery
In stark contrast to Gallipoli, the places of pilgrimage that we visit here in France and Belgium are beautiful and green. The cemeteries appear welcoming, they are meant to be visited. Perfectly manicured and peaceful grounds are what await so many Pilgrims, comprehending the fact that 90 years ago the places where the cemeteries are situated were littered with the carnage of war is unbelievable.
For the people who live around this area the reminder of a war now gone is still alive. It is impossible to drive through Ypres without recognising the signs to so many cemeteries. The cloth hall in the centre of town is a fantastic representation of resilience from all people. The huge structure of the Menin Gate is another reminder of the war and one that continues to command respect for all those who were lost.
Paying tribute to the missing at the Menin Gate
The Flanders Field’s museum was a fantastic presentation of so many sides of the war. It was enjoyed by all and I think that afterwards everyone agreed there was a specific piece within the museum which really moved teach of us; from John McCrae’s poem to the gas masks on display.
Paul Jenkins presents the antique VFB fire
helmet to the Iper Brigade
All dressed up as we were, we had a quick dinner before attending the ceremony at the Menin Gate. Our group was represented by several members whom laid wreaths on the memorial while, Hadley played the Rouse and Tom played Waltzing Matilda on his pipes. The look on so many of the Australians' faces in the crowd when they recognised the tune of Waltzing Matilda was amazing. It was a fantastic reminder of how Australia and the ANZAC’s are so clearly still linked with Ypres and the ceremony at Menin Gate.
Tom pipes Waltzing Matilda at the Menin Gate ceremony
To finish a huge and greatly moving day, we travelled back to our hotel in Lille. We had a bit of a wind down card game together before breaking curfew and being sent to bed by the teachers. The day was full of emotional upheavals and it was impossible not to shed a tear or even a few hundred in some cases and as I laid in bed it was impossible to sleep for some time as the memories and events of the day continued to wash over me. Another day the same, I’m sure none of us will experience again.
Early this morning, we had an optional visit to the Hagia Sophia. Those of us who could manage to roll out of bed, braced the rain and wind and enjoyed visiting this 7th century building immensely. The Hagia Sophia was initially built as a Church, which was later converted into a Mosque and is today a museum.
Madonna & child in the dome of the Hagia Sophia
The interior of the Hagia Sophia is mosaic-ed with golden tiles, so it reflected the light and gave the atmosphere a magical feel. There is also Persian written on large disks and different types of marble used in the structure.
The most dominant architectural feature is the large dome which is supported by other arches and smaller domes. These domes were unique for the time and started a trend across Europe in the designs of other Churches.
One particular column was named the “Sweating column” as it was always slightly damp. We eventually got the idea from other visitors that you pushed your thumb into the man-made hole and made a wish.
The Hagia Sophia is quite extraordinary and was really worthwhile. Tying up our Turkish journey, the Hagia Sophia is the jewel of Istanbul and is an infusion of eastern and western culture.
Early risers gather at the Hagia Sophia
The rest of the day was spent flying to Brussels in Belgium and then driving to our hotel in the town of Lille in France. During this time, we learnt some useful basic French phrases (taught by Tom who is practically fluent). That night we had our first delicious French meal which consisted of salmon and chocolate mousse for dessert. Bienvenue en France!
Another early morning and by today everyone felt pretty tired. That didn’t seem to stop anyone though. It’s not everyday that you are walking the very paths that so many of our ANZACs walked and trying to comprehend the events that caused so many of them to lose their lives.
Today was really our introduction to the Western Front. We have experienced the overwhelming sense of sadness and loss before. It was impossible to visit Gallipoli without experiencing it. But today we were confronted with not only the sadness and sense of loss. We had to try and comprehend the sheer magnitude of deaths that occurred around Ypres and the Salient.
Here so many of the Allied soldiers fought and were killed that it is not as easy to isolate the ANZAC story from the stories of members of the other allied forces, such as the Canadians, Indians, South Africans and, of course, the many parts of Britain.
To put some of the places we visited today into perspective, many of the cemeteries contain the graves of more than 10,000 troops. It’s impossible to imagine that the number of people killed in just one small battle is the same as wiping out the population of an entire town.
In stark contrast to Gallipoli, the places of pilgrimage that we visit here in France and Belgium are beautiful and green. The cemeteries appear welcoming, they are meant to be visited. Perfectly manicured and peaceful grounds are what await so many Pilgrims, comprehending the fact that 90 years ago the places where the cemeteries are situated were littered with the carnage of war is unbelievable.
For the people who live around this area the reminder of a war now gone is still alive. It is impossible to drive through Ypres without recognising the signs to so many cemeteries. The cloth hall in the centre of town is a fantastic representation of resilience from all people. The huge structure of the Menin gate is another reminder of the war and one that continues to command respect for all those who were lost.
The Flanders Field’s museum was a fantastic presentation of so many sides of the war. It was enjoyed by all and I think that afterwards everyone agreed there was a specific piece within the museum which really moved them; from John McCrae’s poem to the gas masks on display.
A quick change was required after our visit to the museum so that we could attend the reception hosted for us by the major of Ypres. Surprisingly it was the boys who took the longest to change and dress. The reception was a fantastic opportunity to mingle with other Aussies travelling the battlefront and understand the reasons for other people’s journeys.
All dressed up as we were, we had a quick dinner before attending the ceremony at the Menin Gate. Our group was represented by several members whom laid wreaths on the memorial while, Hadley played the Rouse and Tom played Waltzing Matilda on his pipes. The look on so many of the Australian’s faces in the crowd when they recognised the tune of Waltzing Matilda was amazing. It was a fantastic reminder of how Australia and the ANZAC’s are so clearly still linked with Ypres and the ceremony at Menin Gate.
To finish a huge and greatly moving day, we travelled back to our hotel in Lille. We had a bit of a wind down card game together before breaking curfew and being sent to bed with our tails between our legs. The day was full of emotional upheavals and it was impossible not to shed a tear or even a few hundred in some cases and as I laid in bed it was impossible to sleep for several minutes as the memories created and events of the day continued to wash over me. Another day the same, I’m sure none of us will experience again.
For our farewell to Gallipoli, we returned to the cemetery at Shrapnel Gully, where Martin paid tribute to his adopted digger, Stanley Vaughan. Hadley played the Last Post and the Rouse and was followed by Tom on the bagpipes. Then as a special goodbye we grouped together and sang “I am Australian”, led by Bridget.
Students singing 'I am Australian' at Shrapnel Gulley
It had been raining and there was a cold wind blowing. But that seemed appropriate. It helped us imagine how much colder and harder it had been in December 1915, when the Allied High Command finally realised that the Dardanelles campaign would never succeed, and ordered the ANZACs to withdraw from Gallipoli.
Martin pays tribute to his digger
Martin's adopted digger, Pte Vaughan
Bruce again encouraged us to put ourselves in the place of those men on both sides, who had endured so much and lost so many comrades. He talked about the padre who walked among the graves sewing wattle seeds, as a final gesture of defiance. At last we boarded the bus and drove towards the ferry terminal. Ahead of us was the city of Cannakale, the site of an ancient fort which had stood up against the shells of the British and French ships, which had originally planned to sail into the harbour of Istanbul and force the surrender of Turkey. Thanks to Evan’s charm and his increasing ability to speak to simple Turkish, the Chief Petty Officer of the naval base at Cannakale invited us aboard the latest replica of the minelayer, Nusret, which had cause such havoc among the British and French fleets in battle for the Dardanelles.
Below decks on the Nustret, we were treated to an impressive, new diorama and original film of the encounters between the Allied battleships, the Turkish shore batteries and the minelayers! It was a total surprise and a real highlight for everyone on the tour.
After that, we were ready for a walk around the ruins of Troy, where we were guided by a local historian, who has published a book on the site and who was able to make sense of the crumbling stones of the once magnificent city besieged by the Greeks. Of course, we all climbed into the wooden horse for obligatory photo opportunity!
After walking the major sites of Istanbul on the first day in the rain, we were looking forward to getting back there in hopefully better weather. But all of us struggled to get out of bed in time to catch the one-and-only early morning flight from Cannakale at 5.45am. And we landed at Istanbul’s second airport, on the Asian side of the city. We faced a long, slow crawl through bumper-to-bumper traffic to get back to our hotel in Sultanahmet and a visit to the Grand Bazaar. But it was worth it!
